Last updated: October 2026
From the hills above Pescia, the sea is a short drive away. On a hot August day, half of Tuscany has the same idea. Welcome to the Versilia.
The Versilia is the stretch of coast north of Pisa, between Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi. It’s long, sandy and flat, with the marble mountains of the Apuan Alps rising right behind it. It’s also very Italian, and doing the beach here has its own rules. Here’s what you need to know.
Beach clubs vs free beaches
Most of the Versilia coast is divided into beach clubs (stabilimenti balneari, or just bagni). Each has its own colour of umbrellas in neat rows, a bar, showers, changing cabins, and often a restaurant. You pay for an umbrella and sunbeds by the day, or by the week, month or season.
In between are free beaches (spiaggia libera), where you just turn up with your own towel and umbrella. They can be busier and have fewer facilities, but they cost nothing.
Tips:
- Book in August. Around Ferragosto (15 August) and at summer weekends, beach clubs fill up. Ask your accommodation, as many have a deal with a nearby club.
- Go in June or September for space, warm sea and lower prices.
- Prices vary hugely, from fairly reasonable to eye-watering. The front row costs most. Ask before you sit.
- Lunch at the beach club is a very Italian thing to do. So is a long nap under the umbrella afterwards.
The Versilia beaches, south to north
Torre del Lago and the Lecciona
Just south of Viareggio, the Lecciona is the wild one: a long free beach backed by dunes and pine woods, inside the regional park of Migliarino, San Rossore and Massaciuccoli. No beach clubs, no rows of umbrellas. Bring everything you need, including water.
Torre del Lago itself is where Puccini lived, on the lake of Massaciuccoli. He’s a Lucca boy. See my post about the Celle dei Puccini museum.
Viareggio
The big, busy, cheerful one. A long seafront promenade with Art Nouveau buildings, shops, cafés and gelato, beach clubs all along the front, and free beaches by the harbour (the Darsena) and by the pier. It’s also where the famous Carnevale happens every winter. See my festivals guide.
Viareggio is on the railway, with trains from Lucca and Pisa, so it’s the easiest beach day without a car.
Lido di Camaiore
Family friendly, with a long pier, a seafront cycle path and a more relaxed feel than Viareggio. There are free beach areas too.
Marina di Pietrasanta
Includes Tonfano, Fiumetto and Motrone. Tonfano has its own pier. The free beach at Motrone is equipped for disabled visitors. See my accessible Tuscany guide.
Don’t miss Pietrasanta itself, just inland: a lovely little town full of marble and bronze workshops and sculpture.
Forte dei Marmi
The smart one. Designer shops, villas behind high hedges, very glamorous beach clubs, and a pier with views of the mountains. There’s a free beach too. Forte’s big Wednesday morning market in Piazza Marconi is famous for clothes, linen and cashmere, and my markets guide has more.
Blue Flag beaches
Every year, Blue Flags (Bandiera Blu) go to beaches with clean water and good services. In 2026, Tuscany had 20. In Versilia, they went to Viareggio, Lido di Camaiore, Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi. Elsewhere in Tuscany, they went to places including Marina di Pisa, Castiglioncello, San Vincenzo, Follonica, Castiglione della Pescaia and, new for 2026, Monte Argentario.
Beyond the Versilia
Tuscany has plenty more coast:
- Marina di Pisa and Tirrenia: close to Pisa, with beach clubs and free stretches.
- Castiglioncello: pretty coves and rocks south of Livorno.
- The Etruscan Coast: long sandy beaches at Cecina, Bibbona, Castagneto Carducci and San Vincenzo.
- The Maremma: wilder and less built up. Marina di Alberese, inside the Maremma natural park, has controlled access, with a shuttle bus in summer. Check before you go.
- Elba and the Argentario: clear water, coves and boats. Elba is a ferry ride from Piombino. See Tuscany without a car.
Beach tips
- Check the flags. A red flag means no swimming.
- Lifeguards work in the summer season, mainly at the beach clubs. Out of season, nobody’s watching.
- Bring cash for small beach bars, though cards are widely accepted.
- Don’t buy from beach sellers. Buying fake designer goods can land you with a fine.
- Pebbles and rocks: south of Livorno and on Elba, take water shoes.
- Bringing the dog? Rules vary from beach to beach and from town to town, and some beaches have a dog area. See Tuscany with a dog.
- With kids? The Versilia’s shallow sandy water is great for little ones. See Tuscany with kids.
Getting there
Viareggio is the easy one by train. The stations for Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi are a little way inland, so you’ll need a walk, a bus or a bike to the sand. By car, parking near the sea in August is a battle, so go early. Read my driving guide first.
After a day on the sand, drive back up into the cool of the hills. That’s my idea of a perfect summer day.
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Susan
