Last updated: October 2026
Hot water bubbles up all over Tuscany. The Etruscans and Romans bathed in it, Victorian poets came for it, and today you can sit in some of it for free, in the open air, under the stars.
There are two kinds of hot springs here. The wild, free ones (terme libere), and the grand old spa towns. Here’s my guide to both.
The free hot springs
Saturnia: Cascate del Mulino
The famous one. Warm, milky blue sulphur water tumbles over a series of natural terraces by an old mill, in the Maremma, in the south of the province of Grosseto. It’s the picture you’ve seen on every Tuscany Instagram page.
- It’s free, and open around the clock.
- There’s no lighting at night, so bring a torch if you go after dark.
- It’s busy, especially at weekends and in summer. Early morning or out of season is much calmer.
- There are no proper facilities at the falls. Bring a towel and something to change under.
The Terme di Saturnia spa resort, up the road, is a separate thing. It’s paid, with big pools and treatments. Don’t confuse the two.
Petriolo
Hot pools on the bank of the cold river Farma, south of Siena. Free, rustic and lovely. I’ve written a whole post on Monticiano and the Petriolo hot springs.
Bagni San Filippo
In the woods on Monte Amiata, in the province of Siena. The water has built up great white mineral formations, the biggest of which is known as the Fosso Bianco or the “White Whale”. The pools along the stream are free. It’s a walk down through the woods from the road, so wear proper shoes.
San Casciano dei Bagni
A hilltop village near the border with Umbria and Lazio, with dozens of hot springs. The Bagno Grande, an old public pool below the village, is free. The village made world news in 2022, when archaeologists found a hoard of ancient bronze statues in the mud of an old sanctuary nearby.
Bagno Vignoni
A tiny village in the Val d’Orcia where the main square is a pool of hot water, steaming away in front of the houses. It’s one of the prettiest sights in Tuscany. But you can’t bathe in it. Look, take photos, then find the spa pools nearby if you want to get in.
The spa towns
Montecatini Terme
The grand old lady of Tuscan spa towns, between Pistoia and Lucca. Since 2021 it’s been one of UNESCO’s “Great Spa Towns of Europe”, with places like Bath, Baden-Baden and Vichy.
Here it’s all about taking the waters. The Tettuccio is the classic place to drink them, in an elegant colonnaded spa building. The Redi is the place for treatments. Then there are the parks, the cafés and the funicular up to the old hill village of Montecatini Alto.
It’s on the railway between Florence and Lucca, so no car needed. My rainy day guide has more.
Grotta Giusti, Monsummano Terme
Just down the road from Montecatini, a paid spa built around a natural thermal cave, where you sit in warm steam deep underground. Book ahead.
Bagni di Lucca
Up the Lima valley, north of Lucca. In the 1800s it was one of the smartest spa resorts in Europe, full of British visitors, poets and writers. The town is still lovely, green and gently faded.
The bad news: the historic spa, the Terme Jean Varraud, and its natural steam caves are closed in 2026, while the council looks for a new operator. Check before you go. It’s still a beautiful place for a wander and a riverside walk. More in my guide to where to stay near Lucca.
Tips for the free springs
- Water shoes. The rocks and terraces are slippery and some are sharp. This is my top tip.
- Leave your silver at home. Sulphur water can tarnish it.
- Old swimsuit. The smell of sulphur (rotten eggs, let’s be honest) can linger.
- Don’t stay in too long if the water is very hot. Get out, cool off, drink water.
- No glass, and take your rubbish home. There are no bins at most of them.
- Go early or late, and avoid summer weekends if you can.
- Spring, autumn and winter are actually the best times. Hot water feels far better on a chilly day.
- Check before you go. Access, parking and rules can change, especially after bad weather.
Getting there
Montecatini is easy by train. Monsummano is a short taxi ride from Montecatini. All the free springs need a car: Saturnia, San Filippo, San Casciano and Bagno Vignoni are in the south of Tuscany, a long way from Lucca and Florence, so they’re best done as part of a trip south or a night away. Read my driving guide first.
Bring a towel. And maybe a flask of tea for afterwards.
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Susan
Photo credits: Hot water by the old walls at Petriolo, beside the Farma (photo: LigaDue, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons). All other photos are my own.
