Last updated: October 2026
Vellano sits high on its hill in the Valleriana, one of the ten castles of the Svizzera Pesciatina. It’s a village of stone lanes, flowers on every step and pretty pink houses. And it’s always felt a little grander than its neighbours.
There’s a reason for that. I once called the hills above Pescia home, and here’s what I’d want you to know before you go.
The old capital
Vellano was once in charge. Until 1928 it was a comune of its own, and Castelvecchio, Pietrabuona, Sorana, Stiappa and Pontito all came under it. Money troubles ended that, and it was merged into Pescia. People still think of it as the capital of the valley.
The name goes back to Avellanum, from the hazel tree, the avellano. Look out for the village crest. It has three hazel trees on it.
At one time Vellano was a fief of the Garzoni family, and later it became a summer resort for families escaping the heat of the plain. You can see why. At around 550 metres, the air up here is always fresher.
The pieve below the walls
Vellano’s pieve, the parish church of Santi Sisto e Martino, has been known since the 10th century. Unusually, it sits below the old castle, outside the walls. Walk down to it and look back up at the village.
Made of stone
Vellano is a stone village in more ways than one. At Vellano is Cava Nardini, the only working quarry of pietra serena in the province. It’s been quarried for over a hundred years. Pietra serena is the soft grey sandstone you see in churches and doorways all over Tuscany, including in the castle villages.
The quarry can be visited by booking. In the village is a little museum, La Miniera di Publio, all about the lives of the miners and quarrymen. It’s free, and it’s listed as open Monday to Saturday, with Sundays by booking. Check before you go.
Chestnuts in October
Vellano is surrounded by chestnut woods, and in early October it holds the Sagra delle Frugiate. Frugiate are chestnuts roasted in a pan with holes, over an open fire. Smoky, sweet and messy. There’s more in my chestnut season post, and the dates are in my sagre month by month.
Eat like a local, not a tourist
Vellano has more choice than most of the castles. All of these were open when I checked in October 2026. Days change, so book or phone first.
- Trattoria Manero. A proper trattoria with a wood-fired oven, grilled steaks, porcini, wild boar and homemade ravioli, and a glass veranda looking over the valley. Lately open Friday to Sunday only. Book.
- Ristorante Da Arturo e Maruca. Opened in 2024 and now doing fish, the catch of the day with a modern twist, with views down the valley. Friday from 5pm, and at weekends from 10.30am to 3pm and from 5pm. Book.
- Circolo ARCI “Sandro Maltagliati”. The village bar on the convent square. Pizza, cheap, and full of locals. Closed on Mondays. In August it holds its big summer festa, EstateInsieme, with baccalà nights, grills and live music, and there’s a chestnut festa in the autumn.
- Bar Trattoria Lina, Macchino. About 3 km below Vellano on the road up. A locals’ bar with a trattoria: truffle tagliolini, wild boar with olives and fried mushrooms. Closed on Tuesdays.
Walking from Vellano
Vellano is on the CAI network. Path 257 and its variant 257A both pass through. Check the latest on caipescia.it before you set off, and see my walking guide for the rest.
Getting there and parking
From Pescia, follow the signs for Vellano. Bar Trattoria Lina at Macchino is on the road up. Park outside the walls and walk in. The lanes are steep and narrow.
More castle villages: Sorana, Medicina and Pontito.
You might also enjoy:
- Le Dieci Castella: a driving route through the Svizzera Pesciatina
- Where to stay near Lucca in the Svizzera Pesciatina
- What to eat in the Lucca and Pistoia hills
Susan
