Last updated: October 2026
If someone asked me which of the ten castles to see if they only had time for one, I’d be torn. But San Quirico would be near the top of the list. The comune itself calls it one of the most beautiful castles of the Valleriana, and for once the official line is spot on.
I once called the hills above Pescia home, and San Quirico is one I’d send anyone to.
High on Monte Battifolle
San Quirico sits on the eastern side of Monte Battifolle, high above the valley, and it looks out over all of it. Ridge after ridge of chestnut woods, the other castle villages dotted about like islands, and on a clear day a very long way beyond.
Sismondi, the Swiss historian who gave the Svizzera Pesciatina its name, would have felt at home here. No wonder San Quirico is still popular with the Swiss in summer.
A village with a past
The church here was first recorded in the 10th century, so people have lived on this spot for well over a thousand years.
It hasn’t always been peaceful. In the Middle Ages San Quirico had a long and bloody feud with its neighbours, especially Castelvecchio, which belonged to Florence at the time. By the end of the 1300s only a few villagers were left. The Republic of Lucca tried to tempt settlers back with ten years tax-free.
Tunnels and pergolas
This is the bit I love. The lanes of San Quirico don’t just run between the houses. They run under them, through little stone tunnels, past arches, steps and pergolas heavy with vines. You go round a corner into the dark and come out into sunshine and a view.
Go slowly. Look up at the arches, and down at the steps worn smooth by centuries of feet. And look out for the doors.
Lower down the village is the church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta, a mother and her little son, both early Christian martyrs, which is where the village gets its name.
There’s also a little museum of country life, the Museo della Civiltà Contadina, in the “Il Frantoio” holiday house, open by booking. Ask in the village whether it’s still taking visitors.
My little film
Years ago I made a short film of San Quirico. Here it is, if you’d like a wander before you go.
Eat like a local, not a tourist
San Quirico’s village bar is the circolo, Circolo ARCI San Quirico “La Castella del Turista”. In summer it does pizza and evening meals on a big open-air rooftop terrace, with views over the whole valley, and on summer nights there’s sometimes dancing. The rest of the year the bar opens in the afternoons, with evenings mainly at weekends.
It’s a members’ club, so you may be asked to buy an ARCI card. It was listed with 2026 hours when I checked in October 2026, but do check before you go, especially out of season.
If it’s shut, head down to Ristorante Pizzeria La Pieve, just below Castelvecchio, for wood-fired pizza and tortelli with mushroom sauce, on a terrace looking across to Sorana. It was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays when I checked.
Walking from San Quirico
San Quirico is on some lovely paths. CAI path 263A climbs over Colle Pinci and the Croce d’Aramo and drops into Aramo. Path 263 goes down to an old mill, the Mulino del Monti. And the long path 250 links San Quirico with Fibbialla and Medicina. Part of 250 was closed when I checked, so look at caipescia.it first. More in my walking guide.
Getting there and parking
From Pescia, follow the signs for Abetone up the valley past Pietrabuona, then follow the signs for San Quirico. The road climbs and twists, so take it slowly. Park outside the village and walk in. The lanes are steps and tunnels, not roads.
Castelvecchio and its wonderful Romanesque pieve are close by, so pair the two. I wrote about an early morning walk there in my dawn stroll around Castelvecchio.
You might also enjoy:
- Le Dieci Castella: a driving route through the Svizzera Pesciatina
- Lignana: the lost eleventh castle
- Where to stay near Lucca in the Svizzera Pesciatina
Susan
