Last updated: October 2026
Only in Italy would a village throw a party for a ham sandwich. And only in Italy would it be this much fun.
Every summer, the little hill village of Castelvecchio, one of the ten castella above Pescia, holds its Sagra del Panino con il Prosciutto. The Festa of the Ham Sandwich. It raises money for the village, and it’s one of my favourite afternoons of the year.
What is the Sagra del Panino con il Prosciutto?
A sagra is a village food festival. This one is all about fresh bread stuffed with salty Tuscan ham. There are sausage panini too, plus bruschetta, pasta fritta (fried dough) and plenty of local wine. Then there’s music into the night.
It’s run by village volunteers: usually the Pro Loco, working with the Misericordia (the local volunteer ambulance and welfare group), the parish and the local association.
My day at the festa
The village had pulled out all the stops. Stalls lined the lanes.
My favourite was this lovely lady selling lavender outside her village house. Her bunches smelled wonderful, and I couldn’t resist.
Then I peeked behind an old village door and got a real surprise. Behind it was a small clothing factory! I never knew. The gentleman makes the garments himself, alongside his wife.
A coffee with a view
When I went, Bar Marina had awesome panoramic views over the valley, with Pontito sitting in the distance. If it’s open when you visit, pop by for a cappuccino or a glass of vino and lose yourself in the backdrop.
The dancing man
This fella danced all day and right through into the night. Nobody could keep up with him.
Even the pegs on the washing line were dancing.
When is it on?
The Sagra del Panino con il Prosciutto is usually held on a Sunday in late August, from late afternoon (around 5pm) into the evening. In 2026 it was Sunday 23 August from 5pm.
Local listings sites such as Il Cittadino Pescia and Cosa fare in Toscana usually publish the date a week or two before. Look out for posters in Pescia and the valley too.
Before you go
- Bring cash. Village festas rarely take cards.
- Wear shoes you can climb in. Castelvecchio is all steps and lanes.
- Arrive early to park. Leave the car outside the village and walk in.
- While you’re there, look at the Romanesque Pieve dei Santi Ansano e Tommaso just outside the village. It’s one of the loveliest old churches in the valley, usually open for events or on request.
Visiting Castelvecchio
Getting there: Castelvecchio is about 12 km north of Pescia, up the Pescia valley in the Svizzera Pesciatina. Leave Pescia heading north towards Pietrabuona and follow signs. From Lucca, Pescia is about 30 km, roughly half an hour.
Without a car: trains run to Pescia, but buses up the valley are few, and none run late after a festa. A car makes life easy. Take a designated driver if you’re enjoying the vino!
Best time to go: late August for the sagra. Spring and autumn for quiet lanes and walks.
Where to stay: Pescia is handy, or stay in the valley for real peace.
You might also enjoy:
- Le Dieci Castella: a driving route through the Svizzera Pesciatina
- Sorana beans: the little Tuscan bean Rossini wanted paying in
- Sagra del Beccutino: Stiappa’s Ferragosto festa
- A living nativity in Tuscany: Christmas Eve in Castelvecchio
- Racing cars pass through Castelvecchio
Thank you for stopping by,
Susan
