Last updated: October 2026
‘Twas the night before Christmas, and all through Castelvecchio, the residents travelled back in time to celebrate the birth of Jesus.
For years, this little village in the hills above Pescia put on a presepe vivente, a living nativity, every Christmas Eve. One year my family and I were part of it. I still get goosebumps.
Off to take some photos
Lily and I set off with the camera, wrapped up against the cold.
In the piazza, Joseph and Mary sat with baby Jesus, and a cute little angel watched over them. Pots were bubbling with hot chocolate and mulled wine. How marvellous!
Someone was getting ready to roast chestnuts. I took far too many photos of them roasting. The smell alone was worth the trip.
Old crafts, goats and hens
All through the lanes, the villagers had brought the old ways back to life. There were goats and hens, weaving, local produce and an iron forge. My girls were fascinated by the fruit and veg.
One lady was weaving a rush seat for a chair. The finished one beside her had been sitting in her kitchen for some time. Bella! Brava!
Before I knew it, I’d swapped my camera for a ball of wool, and it was my turn for some spinning. Yeaaaah!
Down into the cantina
Simon headed into the cantina for some food. I followed with the camera. I never knew this cave existed!
Inside, people were eating by candlelight. Local vino, onions, peppers and garlic. The food was scrumptious. Joseph and Mary had popped in too.
Then a g-g-ghost? Simon had either just witnessed the birth of baby Jesus or spotted a ghost. I’m still not sure which.
Lily found a bedroom with beds made of straw. After a few of those mulled wines (aka rocket fuel), I have to say they looked quite comfy. 😉
There were frescoes too. Whatever it was, it REALLY did happen!
A whole village effort
What a fantastic effort by all the residents. Bravi! I was very honoured and proud that my family was part of this celebration.
Can you still see it?
Sadly, not at the moment. Castelvecchio’s living nativity began in 1990 and grew to almost 60 villagers in costume, playing out old crafts in the cantinas and lanes. The last one was held in 2018. With fewer people living in the village, and the cost of meeting new safety rules, it has been on hold ever since. The village hopes to bring it back one day, and so do I.
Many of the old tools from the nativity (a stone grain mill, a cobbler’s bench, a potter’s wheel, a forge) now live in a little museum of rural life in the Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario in Castelvecchio. Ask in the village or at the parish about a visit.
Where to see a living nativity near Pescia today
Pescia itself puts on a big living nativity, La Città nel Presepe, along the banks of the river Pescia. More than 100 people in medieval costume act out over 30 scenes, with the Nativity itself under the Ponte del Duomo. It usually runs on set days between Christmas and Epiphany (6 January). The dates change each year, so check with the Comune di Pescia before you go.
Lots of Tuscan villages hold a presepe vivente over Christmas, so keep an eye on local posters and listings sites.
If you can’t wait for Christmas, here’s a little film of snowy Christmas scenes in the medieval villages.
Visiting Castelvecchio in winter
Getting there: Castelvecchio is about 12 km north of Pescia, up the Pescia valley in the Svizzera Pesciatina. From Lucca, Pescia is about 30 km, roughly half an hour.
Winter driving: the valley roads are narrow and twisty. Frost and the odd bit of snow are possible up in the villages, so take it slowly. Pescia has a railway station on the Lucca to Florence line, a short walk from the riverside nativity.
Best time to go: December for Christmas lights and nativities. Spring and autumn for walks and quiet lanes.
Where to stay: Pescia or Lucca, both lovely at Christmas.
You might also enjoy:
- Le Dieci Castella: a driving route through the Svizzera Pesciatina
- Festa of the Ham Sandwich: Castelvecchio’s Sagra del Panino con il Prosciutto
- Racing cars pass through Castelvecchio
Buon Natale,
Susan
