Last updated: October 2026
There’s just something about butch mountain men wearing flowery pinnies.
That’s what I remember most about the Sagra del Beccutino in Stiappa. That, and the beccutini.
Stiappa, the quiet village that comes alive
Stiappa is one of the ten villages that make up le Dieci Castella (the ten castles) in the Pescia valley, also known as the Svizzera Pesciatina, little Switzerland. It’s high up, about 627 metres, with Pontito across the valley.
Most of the year it’s very quiet. Like many of these Tuscan hill villages, though, it comes alive in summer. And on Ferragosto, the big Italian holiday on 15 August, the whole village turns out for its festa.
So what is a beccutino?
A beccutino is a little piece of fried potato dough, made to an old family recipe handed down through the generations. You have them sweet, rolled in sugar, or savoury. They come out of the fryer hot and golden, and they don’t last long.
The ladies serve them up by the basketful.
There are also ham and sausage panini, cold watermelon and a bar that never seems to shut. The festa has been going for over 40 years.
The men in pinnies
The barbecue belongs to the men. Big, strong mountain men in flowery aprons, flipping sausages and fanning the coals. They were a joyful, friendly bunch and made my day by happily posing for a few snaps. I went back the next year and there they were again. Love it!
Ella and Mario
One of my favourite moments wasn’t about food at all.
I photographed a lovely couple, Ella and Mario, in the piazza. Ella left France when she was young to be with her husband here in Italy. One morning I was out taking photos at 7am outside her home, and she greeted me in French. Her homeland is still close to her heart.
Later they sat with their friends Sergio and Wanda, watching the world go by. Beautiful.
Music, games and a few surprise visitors
The piazza fills with music, games, stalls and refreshments. There’s always something for the children. When I went, a group of cyclists stopped by en route and joined in. Renzo Tori was chatting with Publio Biagini, the writer from nearby Vellano.
The local Misericordia volunteers were there too, keeping an eye on everyone.
My daughters had a whale of a time.
When is the Sagra del Beccutino?
The Sagra del Beccutino is held every year on 15 August, Ferragosto, starting in the late afternoon (around 5pm) and going on into the evening. It’s organised by the Pro Loco di Stiappa and the village volunteers. Check the time each year.
Remember that Ferragosto is the busiest holiday of the Italian summer. Roads and restaurants get busy, so plan ahead.
Before you go
- Park outside the village and walk in. The lanes are steep and narrow, and there are tunnels under the houses.
- Bring cash for the stalls.
- Bring a jumper. At 600-odd metres the evenings cool down quickly, even in August.
- Wander the lanes before it gets busy. Stiappa’s old stone tunnels and flowery corners are a joy.
Visiting Stiappa
Getting there: Stiappa is in the hills north of Pescia, about 6 km from Pontito. From Pescia, head north up the valley towards Pietrabuona and follow signs for Castelvecchio and Stiappa. Allow around 35 minutes; the last stretch is narrow and twisty. From Lucca, Pescia is about 30 km, around half an hour.
Without a car: honestly, it’s hard. Trains run to Pescia but buses up the valley are rare, and there are none late at night.
Best time to go: 15 August for the festa. Late spring and early autumn for quiet lanes and hydrangeas.
Where to stay: Pescia is a handy base, or rent a village house up in the Svizzera Pesciatina.
You might also enjoy:
- Le Dieci Castella: a driving route through the Svizzera Pesciatina
- 8 small villages in Tuscany you’ve probably never heard of
- Sorana beans: the little Tuscan bean Rossini wanted paying in
Amore 🙂
Susan
You might also like: Festa of the Ham Sandwich: Castelvecchio’s Sagra del Panino con il Prosciutto and Tuscany sagre and festivals, month by month
